Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and visitors equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a select roster of world cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it becomes part of a worldwide network of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "is a testament to its deep-rooted food heritage and lively culinary scene," as stated by a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this time-honored city is no surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is now in the global gaze for what has perennially characterized its essence: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a ongoing discussion from morning until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and elevated to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of food experimentation, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on every corner, there are little shops and carts – hidden delights that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and complicated. The artisan whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will inspire more people worldwide to explore these narratives and experience the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
